Winter Sessions / by Richard Lawless

Early July 2019. Victoria

Water temp 13°C

Duration of surf in a dilapidated 4/3 wetsuit : about half an hour

Morning air temp : 4.2°C

Number of surfers in water : 2

Shutter speed : 1/8th of a second

Time in barrel to remain stoked for a week : 3, maybe 4 seconds